CITIES IN RAJASTHAN - AJMER

Ajmer is a burgeoning town on the shore of the Ana Sagar Lake flanked by barren hills. Ajmer derives its name from 'Ajaya Meru' or the invincible hill, at the foot of which the present city stands. Ajmer is a major centre for Muslim pilgrims during the month long fast of Ramzan and has some impressive Muslim architecture. Especially famous is the Dargah Sharif, the tomb of a Sufi saint, which is equally revered by the Hindus and Muslims. For most travellers, Ajmer is however, a stepping stone to nearby Pushkar. Historically, the region had considerable strategic importance. The city was founded by Raja Ajay Pal Chauhan in the 7th Century AD and continued to be a major center of the Chauhan power till 1193 AD when it was sacked by Mohammed Ghouri on one of his periodic forays from Afghanistan. Since then Ajmer became home to many dynasties, which came and left leaving behind indelible marks of their culture and traditions on the city's history, converting it to an amalgam of various cultures and blend of Hinduism and Islam. It became the favourite residence of the Mughals. One of the first contacts between the Mughals and the British occurred in Ajmer, when Sir Thomas Roe met Jahangir here in 1616. The city was subsequently taken over by the Scindias and in 1818 it was handed over to the British, becoming one of the few places in Rajasthan controlled directly by the British rather than being part of a princely state. The British chose Ajmer as the site for Mayo College, a prestigious school for the Indian princes, but today open to all those who can afford the fees.

PLACES TO SEE

The Dargah - located at the foot of a barren hill in the old part of the town, this is India's most important pilgrimage center for people from all faiths. Popularly known as Dargah Sharif, it is the tomb of the Sufi saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chisti who came to Ajmer from Persia in 1192. Mughal Emperor Humayun completed construction of the shrine and the Nizam of Hyderabad added its massive gate. Akbar used to make a pilgrimage to the Dargah from Agra once a year. The two massive iron cauldrons in the courtyard are for offerings, which are customarily shared by the family involved in the shrine's upkeep. There are two mosques in courtyard one built by Akbar and the other by Shahjahan. The saint's tomb with a marble dome is in the centre of the second courtyard and is surrounded by a silver platform. Please note you have to cover your head in certain areas of the Dargah, hence kindly keep a scarf or cap.

The shrine is next only to Mecca for the Muslims of south Asia. The Urs Mela commemorating the death anniversary of the saint is held here in the seventh month of the lunar calendar and attracts a large number of Muslims from India and abroad. A colourful fair that springs up during this time is the major attraction.

Ana Sagar Lake - is an artificial lake that was created in the 12th century by damming River Luni. On its bank is the pleasant park, the Daulat Bagh containing a series of marble pavilions erected in 1637 by Shahjahan. There are fine views from the hill beside the park. Boats are available for hire at the jetty.

Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra - located beyond the Dargah, on the outskirts of the town are the ruins of this mosque. According to legend, its construction in 1153 took 2 ½ days (adhai din), hence the name. It was originally a Sanskrit college, built within a temple. But In 1193 AD Mohamed Ghouri seized Ajmer and converted the building into a mosque by adding a seven-arched wall in front of the pillared hall. The building is a fine piece of Indo-Islamic architecture. The pillars are all different and the arched screen with its minarets is noteworthy.

Taragarh Fort -about 3 km beyond the Adhai-din-ka-Jhonpra mosque lies this fort. Taragarh or the Star Fort, was built by Ajaipal Chauhan, the town's founder and commands a superb view over the city. It was the site of much the military activity during the Mughal period and was later used as a sanatorium by the British.

The Museum -once a palace built by Mughal Emperor Akbar, this imposing building now houses the government museum. Its collection includes stone sculptures, old weapons and miniature paintings.

Nasiyan Temple -this Red Temple is a Jain temple built in the 19th century. Its double storey hall contains a fascinating series of large, gilt wooden figures from Jain mythology that depict the Jain concept of the ancient world.

AROUND AJMER

Pushkar -located about 11km away and separated from Ajmer by 'Nag Pahar' (Snake Mountain) is the abode of Lord Brahma, the Creator. The Lake at Pushkar, situated on the edge of the desert and surrounded by hills on three sides, is believed to have been created by Lord Brahma himself and has the same sanctity for Hindus as the Mansarover Lake in Tibet. Legend has it that this is the first place on Earth that was created by Lord Brahma. The town clings to the side of the Lake with its many temples and bathing ghats. For Hindus, no pilgrimage to complete without a visit to Pushkar. During the month of Kartik (October/November), devotees throng in large numbers here to take a dip in the sacred lake.

Temples - there are as many as 400 temples though few are as ancient as can be expected from such an important pilgrim site. Many were desecrated by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb and subsequently rebuilt. The most famous of the temples is the Brahma Temple, said to be one of the very few temples in the world dedicated to the deity. The temple is marked by a red spire, and over its entrance gate is the hans or the goose vehicle of Brahma. The other important temple is the Savitri Temple located on a hilltop overlooking the lake. It is dedicated to Brahma's consort Savitri.

Ghats -there are about 52 ghats that run down the lake. The water around each ghat is supposed to have special powers. Pilgrims can be seen constantly bathing in the lake's sacred waters.

Pushkar Palace -located near the lake this was once the residence of the Maharaja of nearby Kishangarh. It has now been converted into a heritage hotel.

Pushkar Fair -is one of the most colorful cattle fairs of India. Besides trading of horses, camels, cows and bulls, there are exciting camel races, street theatre and cultural events. There are a variety of stalls selling interesting handicrafts, clothes, household items and leather goods. The place becomes a flurry of activity with musicians, mystics, comedians, tourists, traders, animals and devotees all converging on the small town. The exact dates of the Fair depends on the lunar calendar, but in Hindu chronology it falls on the full moon (Purnima) of the month of Kartik (October/November) when devotees cleanse away their sins by bathing in the holy lake.

Suggested Itinerary :

RAJASTHAN - NEVER ENDING DISCOVERY - 17 DAYS
DELHI / NEEMRANA / MANDAWA / BIKANER / JAISALMER / JODHPUR / ROHET / RANAKPUR / KUMBALGARH / UDAIPUR / AJMER / JAIPUR / AGRA / DELHI

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